And if you are not sure what gearing to use you can always go to your vehicles stock gearing tooth count as a default starting point. You will want to explore trying out different gearings during your practice runs but always ask for advice and get suggestions from others who are familiar with the track you are going to race at. Everyone wants their car to go fast and perform at its best and understanding gear ratios, final drive ratios and rollouts is a key to winning. Your Slash 4×4 is almost ready to hit the track again but now that you have upgraded the spur and differential it is time to consider coupling it with a high quality pinion gear to set the ratio for the track you are going to. Make sure the differential is rotating freely and all four wheels rotate cleanly and smoothly. Once you have the center differential in place you then simply screw the chassis back into place with the original four screws. To help the rear output shaft of the center differential lock into the key of the rear differential you will need to slowly rotate the rear tires until the shaft slides and sets into place. Now with the center differential in place slide the rear assembly back into place until the drive shaft hits the rear differential. Here you can see the difference between the Robinson/Traxxas upgrade part and the stock Slash 4×4 slipper assemblies. Stand the chassis up on its front end and insert the new center diff so that the splined shaft adapter is received by the center drive shaft and can rotate smoothly. Traxxas has already pre-built the center differential housing using 100k weight diff fluid for use with most surface conditions. Now that the slipper gear is removed you will want to mount the Robinson Racing’s spur gear onto the Traxxas Center Differential which is held in place with four screws. Once those are removed the rear assembly will slide out making the slipper gear accessible and easy to pull out. With the gear cover off, there are two screws on the top and two more on the bottom that you will need to remove using a 2.5mm hex driver. First you will want to unscrew the four main chassis screws that hold the rear assembly to the main chassis. Swapping out the slipper gear in the Slash is a simple endeavor. Always get suggestions from other racers and your local hobby store or race track about what gearing ratios to start with. If you are serious about dialing in your truck on varying track types it is definitely suggested you purchase a few different pinion gears with different tooth counts. Robinson Racing makes spur gears specifically meant to bolt onto the Traxxas upgrade diff. To kick things off, I choose to pair the Traxxas Center Differential upgrade with a good set of gears from Robinson Racing. I’ll will also be upgrading the plastic spur gear for a Robinson Racing spur complimented with their line of Absolute pinion gears. Before I start emptying the checking account on Low CG chassis kits and other stuff for my budding racer, I choose to keep it simple to start by swapping out the truck’s slipper/spur gear for Traxxas’ Center Differential upgrade. With upgrades coming at it from all angles, choosing the right ones is a balancing act of personal finances and choosing the upgrades that immediately enhance performance. If you have invested in a high performance RC model like the Traxxas Slash 4×4, there’s an entire world open to you in the form of upgrades and hop-ups. The goal is to find that balance between forward bite thru the sweepers and rear bite while exiting the sweepers.There is a moment everyone has at the track when they realize that running a vehicle with its stock parts just won’t cut it. Hope that helps and it's applicable to any lcg platform. Moving the battery back to increase rear bite in short wheelbase w/70-100k center diff fluid is not as nearly effective as lightening up the fluid (cause it'll whip around even harder once traction is lost and tends to push anyway). I was reaching 50-100k, then 100k then 120k in long wheelbase format since the weight transfer was that much more pronounced/leveraged (longer sea-saw boards/distance between f/r tires).Īlso noticed I can reach 15k in the rear in short wheelbase for more forward bight, less diffing out. At 12.75" I found 30-50k center diff fluid to work the best since the sea-saw is not as pronounced as with the 13.1" wheelbase. Two ways to manipulate front-rear weight transfer is by the center diff fluid or the wheelbase. It's best to think of your truck as a sea-saw from front to back. On the center diff fluid I've finally reached an understanding while switching back and forth from the 12.75" stock wheelbase to the 13.1" extended wheelbase (by ssc rear a-arms).
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